@ Chris, the pedals are club sport V2's .. how ever I added a piece of aluminum angle across the frame to raise the front off floor and then crafted a rear support system in the rear to adjust pedal angle .... made it much easier to move before I made the base . I can get a close up of the set up if you would like .
Tino Zuvela i Had your exact Pedal problem and only became seriouse about fixing it when i got my v2 last november... i used to just unplug the pedals it would work for a bit then go out again... some times as i pressed the gas the clutch would go up for no reason at all... ive re-flashed my CSR E many many many times thinkig it was FW on wheel or PC...Plain and simple it was just time to replace the PCB and Hall sensors... the best $66.00 ive spent in a long time.
Ive Lost alot of Races with that issue also... lol
Thank you for creating these great products! I really do appreciate it.
Is there a timeline for addressing the LSB/LB RSB/RB issue on the Xbox One HUB? Everything else is working wonderfully for me. Buttons are already very limited on the Xbox One, and it is a minor hindrance to have no function from two of them.
Thank you for creating these great products! I really do appreciate it.
Is there a timeline for addressing the LSB/LB RSB/RB issue on the Xbox One HUB? Everything else is working wonderfully for me. Buttons are already very limited on the Xbox One, and it is a minor hindrance to have no function from two of them.
Thanks again Thomas!
Luke McLane
This is a PCars problem I guess, cause playing PCars on ps4 with the hub I can assign the LSB and RSB buttons. The LB, LT, RB and RT remain shifter paddles and brake/gas pedals though, but that is M$ protocol
Which parameter do I have to change to feel better the loose of grip? Most of the feeled millions of possibilities of PCARS are not explained in the game. Do I really have to adjust the setting for each car? (Forza solved this much better in my opinion). I would like to spend more time in adjusting the car than the wheel force (such as feedback etc.).
I don't really have time for this, and I cannot find any description of what each feature will change for the wheel and the car? Do you guys really know what each parameter in PCARS changes for the car settings and wheel settings?
Probably it´s because I am German, I would like to understand what each feature changes to the car and wheel (just kidding).
My config: Wheelbase V2, Xbox One rim, Project Cars for Xbox One.
Which parameter do I have to change to feel better the loose of grip? Most of the feeled millions of possibilities of PCARS are not explained in the game. Do I really have to adjust the setting for each car? (Forza solved this much better in my opinion). I would like to spend more time in adjusting the car than the wheel force (such as feedback etc.).
I don't really have time for this, and I cannot find any description of what each feature will change for the wheel and the car? Do you guys really know what each parameter in PCARS changes for the car settings and wheel settings?
Probably it´s because I am German, I would like to understand what each feature changes to the car and wheel (just kidding).
My config: Wheelbase V2, Xbox One rim, Project Cars for Xbox One.
Thanks for the help
Best regards, Alexander
I think everything pCars promised Forza 6 with deliver on. And I bet Forza Horizon 3 is stellar also. Turn 10 will have X1 on lock. I might skip pCars all together. Especially with F6 coming so soon this year.
Hello all, Im having an issue updating the FW. When I try putting my CSW V2 in bootloader mode, theres only one blue light the lits up (lower left light). And on the manual it says that all four should be lit up. (I had the Xbox One Hub attached to the wheel base)... Everything looks good but im confused the instructions says this.... IMPORTANT: - Wheel center has to be calibrated. - H-Shifter has to be calibrated. - Tuning menu settings are reset to factory default. Then on the message log it says...... ClubSport Wheel V2 detected Device connected Default Hex file has been loaded successfully Flash Erased Programming completed Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds... 2 seconds... 1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully No Response from the device. Operation failed... Can some one make a video on how to do all this? Im a newbie when it comes to computers. I would really appreciate the help
Thank you for creating these great products! I really do appreciate it.
Is there a timeline for addressing the LSB/LB RSB/RB issue on the Xbox One HUB? Everything else is working wonderfully for me. Buttons are already very limited on the Xbox One, and it is a minor hindrance to have no function from two of them.
Thanks again Thomas!
Luke McLane
This is a PCars problem I guess, cause playing PCars on ps4 with the hub I can assign the LSB and RSB buttons. The LB, LT, RB and RT remain shifter paddles and brake/gas pedals though, but that is M$ protocol
It is not a PCars problem. Same issue on the Xbox dashboard, as well as FM5 and FH2. With the X1 Hub connected to an Xbox One, the RSB and LSB inputs output RB and LB, rendering the buttons useless.
Hello all, Im having an issue updating the FW. When I try putting my CSW V2 in bootloader mode, theres only one blue light the lits up (lower left light). And on the manual it says that all four should be lit up. (I had the Xbox One Hub attached to the wheel base)... Everything looks good but im confused the instructions says this.... IMPORTANT: - Wheel center has to be calibrated. - H-Shifter has to be calibrated. - Tuning menu settings are reset to factory default. Then on the message log it says...... ClubSport Wheel V2 detected Device connected Default Hex file has been loaded successfully Flash Erased Programming completed Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds... 2 seconds... 1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully No Response from the device. Operation failed... Can some one make a video on how to do all this? Im a newbie when it comes to computers. I would really appreciate the help
Pedro, I had the same issue. Same story exactly. I contacted Support and they confirmed that it was OK, and correct, that only the one led, bottom left quadrant was illuminated. I got the same messages. I tried to load the FW 5 times, then the base lost all power. It is currently enroute to California to Fanatec for repair. :-( . One thing you need to do, if not already. Remove the FW from your PC. Then turn off any and all antivirous software you have, then download again. Also, one of the guys here suggested remove the hub from the base, then do the upgrade procedure again. Hope that helps and hope it works next time. Best of luck. Now I have to wait a couple of more weeks while they fix and return my base. Oh well. I have nothing but time on my hands.;-)
Thank you Trevor, I had also tried to install the FW about 4 or 5 times. Sorry to hear your CSW base has to go in for repair. Hopefully they'll be able to fix it asap... I will try your suggestions and Ill let you know how it goes. I didnt know you have to disable any antivirus, I have AVG pro so Ill be disabling that, and redownload the FW. I thought I read on the quick guide or maybe it was here on the blog somewhere, that when updating the FW that the xbox hub should be attached to the wheel base. But I wiil try to updated it again without the xbox hub. Also is it okay if the pedals and the shifter is connected to the wheel base while updating the FW?? I had everything attached to the wheel base xbox hub, pedals and shifter.... Thanks again for your help i really appreciate it!!
Joe Rugo...I've posted a 'how to update firmware' on the 'xbox one hub shipping' topic....check that one out! After that your hub will work on the XOne.
I tried looking for the video but I couldn't find it, too many post... What page is it on? Thanks!
Pedro, I had mine in the port marked "data" and it produce the same result you are getting the photo is correct.... once I hooked things up correctly {refer to photo} all was good. good luck fellow "newbie"
Joe, you'd have to start a forum somewhere. This is a Blog. The Host (Thomas) determines the topics and we can discuss within his parameters. Although the subject often gets lost in the discussion. ;-)
Trevor, I would think A facebook page or "group" would serve the same purpose... I have a little used facebook profile that might work a start... the only limitation would be not having the ability to sort by topic.... not sure most of us "tech newbies" are capable of our own blog... the only requirements I would have are 1] there is no such thing as a stupid question. and 2] be nice
Are we going to be able to set maximum for the axis' as shown in the v3 gui for v2 as well: https://i.imgur.com/NkDbnlv.png ?
This is desperately needed for the handbrake in particular, as currently the max is reset each time you pull it harder than the previous max, after a few hours play this necessitates unplugging and replugging the pedals in, as games that require full handbrake become nearly impossible to use, I feel like I'm going to brake the handbrake every time.
Pedro, you don't need a video. Like Joe said. Check if every cable is in the right port. Let everything hooked to the base including hub. Check your pc system too. Is it 32 or 64 bit and download the right file, after you removed Fanatec app in programs/software, disable AVG, unpack and install. Turn on the base and set it in pc mode. Start up Fanatec program and click on tab update, I thought the base goes out itself to update mode now. If not do it manually. Start up the update process again and normally you should be fine after the base restarts. On display it shows 094. Calibrate the wheel, and if you wanna test it in Fanatec app.Close the app, cause your wheel started up in XOne mode and won't be recognized. Set base in pc mode, start up Fanatec app again and you can test and calibbrate the shifter too.
Is anyone else having an issue with the screen going dark in FM5 free play? I've been running 20 lap races at Indy and it has been happening since I started using the V2...
Is anyone else having an issue with the screen going dark in FM5 free play? I've been running 20 lap races at Indy and it has been happening since I started using the V2...
Just guessing here, Joe, but does the screen go dark after a certain amount of time, example 30 minutes or sixty minutes, all the time. If so, it could be a screen saver setting on the Xbox or on your TV.
Trevor, it seems to be going to screen saver mode mid race, and is random. A 20 lap race takes about 22 minutes and it can happen on to two times a race ....or not. It never happened while using the pad... and it returns to normal when I depress the A button... my reason for asking was to determine if it was a result of the feed back from the wheel to the Xbox, or if I can look forward to replacing the Xbox...
12:02 into the race... sleep time for the Xbox.. I think I 've got a pretty good handle on why, a good set up at Indy and the only functions of the wheel you engage are the gas, brake and wheel, when it happened this time, a down shift woke up the Xbox. maybe one to pass on to Thomas for a future update.
Pedro, I had mine in the port marked "data" and it produce the same result you are getting the photo is correct.... once I hooked things up correctly {refer to photo} all was good. good luck fellow "newbie"
Yeah before I did the FW update I doubled checked that everything was plugged in the correct place. Thank you for the reference picture.
Pedro, you don't need a video. Like Joe said. Check if every cable is in the right port. Let everything hooked to the base including hub. Check your pc system too. Is it 32 or 64 bit and download the right file, after you removed Fanatec app in programs/software, disable AVG, unpack and install. Turn on the base and set it in pc mode. Start up Fanatec program and click on tab update, I thought the base goes out itself to update mode now. If not do it manually. Start up the update process again and normally you should be fine after the base restarts. On display it shows 094. Calibrate the wheel, and if you wanna test it in Fanatec app.Close the app, cause your wheel started up in XOne mode and won't be recognized. Set base in pc mode, start up Fanatec app again and you can test and calibbrate the shifter too.
Good luck!
Thanks Antoine for your help I appreciate it:).. I was just wanting a video to make sure i was doing everything right...My laptop is 64 bit I checked before downloading the FW ... So today I turned on my wheel and on the xbox hub display it shows 094 and then CAL starts to blink... Sorry for the stupid questions but should I update the FW again because I did the update with the antivirus on, not knowind that i was supposed to disable it or should it be okay?? If so should I be okay to go ahead and start playing PCARS on PS4? Also I remember when i did the FW update was done the wheel would automatically switch to xbox mode (all 4 quadrants lit up green) and on the CSW V2 guide it says that "When the update is done the CSW V2 must be restarted by pressing Restart Wheel, which is available after FW update is completly finished" but on the Fanatec CS base updater window it just gives me 3 options it doesnt give me the option to Restart Wheel after the update is done. It just automatically disconnects and it says this ClubSport Wheel V2 detected Device connected Default Hex file has been loaded successfully Flash Erased Programming completed Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds... 2 seconds... 1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully No Response from the device. Operation failed
Thanks in advance for your help, for being patient with me and for putting up with my NEWBIE questions. Hope you guys/gals understand, I just dont want to do anything wrong to happen to my CSW V2 because it was really expensive and I just WANT TO RACE ALREADY!!.... THANKS FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING:)
Pedro, you seem to have the correct firmware in the base, but I don't understand the 'operation failed" message. Did you double check the where you have your pedals , shifter, and handbrake? If so you the LED on the base should be flashing "CAL"... if so recalibrate the wheel to center and if using the PS4 set the wheel to PC mode . Do you have the universal hub ? If so down load the user guide from that product page .. the instructions there are fairly easy to follow...
And remember ... the only "stupid question" is the one you don't ask.
Pedro, everything IS fine if the hub starts up in XOne mode and display shows 094, calibrate the wheel (centre it) according to the manual, which can be downloaded at Xbox one hub product page..tab downloads. AFTER calibration, turn base off, plug usb in ps4 if you didn't already do that...if so no need turning base off and back on again. When in XOne mode press the 2 buttons to set it in pc mode, you should see the 4 led lights turn red. And it's game on for PCars mate. You still need navigating the ps4 menu with the controller and start up PCars with the 'A' button, cause that's the one that's used for the 'cross' button. Everyone is a newbie when they get their first Fanatec gear mate, and unfortunately the manuals are sometimes confusing or simply not there. Like a how to update video from Fanatec like the other video manual
Comments
@ Chris, the pedals are club sport V2's .. how ever I added a piece of aluminum angle across the frame to raise the front off floor and then crafted a rear support system in the rear to adjust pedal angle .... made it much easier to move before I made the base . I can get a close up of the set up if you would like .
Ive Lost alot of Races with that issue also... lol
Thomas,
Thank you for creating these great products! I really do appreciate it.
Is there a timeline for addressing the LSB/LB RSB/RB issue on the Xbox One HUB? Everything else is working wonderfully for me. Buttons are already very limited on the Xbox One, and it is a minor hindrance to have no function from two of them.
Thanks again Thomas!
Luke McLane
IMPORTANT:
- Wheel center has to be calibrated.
- H-Shifter has to be calibrated.
- Tuning menu settings are reset to factory default.
Then on the message log it says......
ClubSport Wheel V2 detected
Device connected
Default Hex file has been loaded successfully
Flash Erased
Programming completed
Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds...
2 seconds...
1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully
Device disconnected
Programming completed
Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds...
2 seconds...
1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully
No Response from the device. Operation failed...
Can some one make a video on how to do all this? Im a newbie when it comes to computers. I would really appreciate the help
Pedro, check to make sure you have the pedals in the proper port... I had mine in the wrong port by mistake and had the same issue ...
Trevor, I would think A facebook page or "group" would serve the same purpose... I have a little used facebook profile that might work a start... the only limitation would be not having the ability to sort by topic.... not sure most of us "tech newbies" are capable of our own blog... the only requirements I would have are 1] there is no such thing as a stupid question. and 2] be nice
Let everything hooked to the base including hub.
Check your pc system too. Is it 32 or 64 bit and download the right file, after you removed Fanatec app in programs/software, disable AVG, unpack and install.
Turn on the base and set it in pc mode. Start up Fanatec program and click on tab update, I thought the base goes out itself to update mode now. If not do it manually. Start up the update process again and normally you should be fine after the base restarts. On display it shows 094. Calibrate the wheel, and if you wanna test it in Fanatec app.Close the app, cause your wheel started up in XOne mode and won't be recognized. Set base in pc mode, start up Fanatec app again and you can test and calibbrate the shifter too.
Good luck!
Trevor , it happened at 21:54 into the race this time .... I think it be due to the lack of button usage as opposed to the pad.
Antoine, I just have the wheel hooked up... it may be because I'm lapping Indy in a Jeep Grand Cherokee and the racing gods do not approve...
X_XClubSport Wheel V2 detected
Device connected
Default Hex file has been loaded successfully
Flash Erased
Programming completed
Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds...
2 seconds...
1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully
Device disconnected
Programming completed
Restarting Wheel in 3 seconds...
2 seconds...
1 second...
Firmware update completed successfully
No Response from the device. Operation failed
Thanks in advance for your help, for being patient with me and for putting up with my NEWBIE questions. Hope you guys/gals understand, I just dont want to do anything wrong to happen to my CSW V2 because it was really expensive and I just WANT TO RACE ALREADY!!.... THANKS FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING:)
Pedro, you seem to have the correct firmware in the base, but I don't understand the 'operation failed" message. Did you double check the where you have your pedals , shifter, and handbrake? If so you the LED on the base should be flashing "CAL"... if so recalibrate the wheel to center and if using the PS4 set the wheel to PC mode . Do you have the universal hub ? If so down load the user guide from that product page .. the instructions there are fairly easy to follow...
And remember ... the only "stupid question" is the one you don't ask.
Everyone is a newbie when they get their first Fanatec gear mate, and unfortunately the manuals are sometimes confusing or simply not there.
Like a how to update video from Fanatec like the other video manual