CSL Elite McLaren Steering Wheel will ship in June

If you missed the pre-order opportunity for the CSL Elite Steering Wheel McLaren then here is your chance to place an regular order.

From today you can pre-order those steering wheels again and they will be available worldwide on June 6th for shipment.

I kindly invite all pre-order customers who already revceived their McLaren wheel to give me their impressions or reviews here in the comments.






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Comments

  • I just ordered the McLaren rim now. I want to ask kindly once more to make it happen that I can get also the Firmware update for a Macbook computer because I still have no windows PC ( as a PS4 player, not really needed a windows system so far ). I will buy a PC for sim racing in the future, but for now I have only a Macbook, I want to be able to do the firmware update with it.
    Thanks!
  • Ordered mine.
  • I just ordered the McLaren rim now. I want to ask kindly once more to make it happen that I can get also the Firmware update for a Macbook computer because I still have no windows PC ( as a PS4 player, not really needed a windows system so far ). I will buy a PC for sim racing in the future, but for now I have only a Macbook, I want to be able to do the firmware update with it.
    Thanks!
    I do this very easily running Paralles software on my iMac - https://www.parallels.com/products/desktop/
  • Ordered mine! can't wait
  • I just ordered the McLaren rim now. I want to ask kindly once more to make it happen that I can get also the Firmware update for a Macbook computer because I still have no windows PC ( as a PS4 player, not really needed a windows system so far ). I will buy a PC for sim racing in the future, but for now I have only a Macbook, I want to be able to do the firmware update with it.
    Thanks!
    I do this very easily running Paralles software on my iMac - https://www.parallels.com/products/desktop/
    This is certainly a possible solution, but it is very expensive if you just want to update the firmware of some peripherals. You need both software like Parallels (about €80,-) and a copy of Windows (I've seen them as low as another €80,-). I think it would be great for console gamers with a Mac OS desktop or laptop if they could use that to update their firmware.
  • edited May 2018
    I just ordered the McLaren rim now. I want to ask kindly once more to make it happen that I can get also the Firmware update for a Macbook computer because I still have no windows PC ( as a PS4 player, not really needed a windows system so far ). I will buy a PC for sim racing in the future, but for now I have only a Macbook, I want to be able to do the firmware update with it.
    Thanks!
    Yeah I actually have a gaming PC, but mainly use PS4 for GT Sport for my CSL Elite wheel, and mainly use macOS for all my main work and things. So making the Fanatec updater and properties software multi-platform would be really nice. There are also some games like Dirt Rally that are multi-platform and work fine on macOS as well. I am sure multi-platform support would be quite a bit of work but definitely would be extremely useful to me.

    Great to see the GT3 wheel fully available!
  • edited May 2018
    I received mine a week ago.  It's a typical Fanatec wheel rim with typical Fanatec quality.  It's very comfortable in my hands and works well.  I love the OLED screen since it allows a lot more information to be displayed than the LED screens on previous generations.   My only issue so far is either Forza 7 or PCARS 2 wouldn't allow me to map the handbrake to an axis instead of a button as I was trying to use the clutch paddles for that. It's possible that didn't work because I didn't switch to handbrake mode but I haven't tried again since.  Either way that would be a problem with the game, not this wheel rim.  I'm very happy with my purchase.

    I can't say whether the Clubsport QR system is worth the extra $100 since I put it on immediately.  I've never really been a fan of the cheaper semi-QR anyway.
  • edited May 2018
    It's auch a Beauty...
  • Placed my order even though I had some reservations. I am eager to hear what the general public has to say and not anyone sponsored.
  • Just get my order too,! Just a little bit!
  • I used the wheel for little over 5 hrs now, mounted via CSW QR on a V2 base.
    My other wheels are both CSW's (Porsche 918 RSR and Formula Carbon)

    Some of my impressions and findings so far.

    The weight. 
    The wheel feels incredible light compared to my other two CSW wheels. As it turned out, the difference comes mostly from the CSW QR. When equipped with the QR, the McLaren is only 20 grams lighter than the Formula Carbon.

    The good points:

    Shape and dimensions are really ideal for driving GT3 cars. For me so much better than the Formula, even for open wheelers.

    - Once attached to the base, the plastic housing feels surprisingly good. It does not bend, it does not crack, it's pretty solid. The wheel will look good on any rig.

    - The new OLED display is nicer than the 'old' ones on my CSW wheels. It is more clear and gives better info about the settings.

    - The wheel comes equipped with X-box style button covers, but includes a set of 'more real' covers that can be changed easily, there is even a set of stickers included to clarify what the buttons do. Nice touch.

    The not so good points:

    The 'balancing' shifter paddle may be a good idea, but as it is now it is not good or practical because just too heavy to operate (probably because the very short shift distance. I tried to measure as good as I could and as it turns out the force needed to change gears is 1.3 kg (push or pull is obviously the same). That may not sound bad, but compared to both CSW paddles (Porsche 918 and Formula Carbon) it is not something you want, especially in longer races. The CSW's shift at 3-400 grams.
    I automatically started using two and even three fingers (while I use one on the CSW shifters). Pushing the levers is even more difficult and without gloves rather painful after a while. Yesterday I ended up racing a 20 lap race (no gloves) and I was glad the race was over. My fingers still hurt as I am typing this. 
    I would appreciate a softer spring and longer reach.


    The two N and P buttons with safety collars are WAY to heavy to push, really. I mean, they are not that hard when you just try 'em out, but pushing them while driving is virtually only possible when on a straight and when you have some time. A quick push while steering into a corner is a no go. I used the P as pit limiter and by the time I managed to actually push the button I already had a speeding penalty.
    - The two rotary buttons may very well be a good idea for the future, but as long as the sims don't fully support that kind of input, they are rather useless at present.

    - Button layout. I will start specifying that if you only use one wheel, the following may not be important. Switching wheels atm is rather dramatic. I can swap from the Formula to the Porsche without issues (though the button layout is not exactly the same but all functions are there). Swapping to the Mc Laren is more demanding. I have (e.g) look left/right/up/down mapped to the analog joystick on the CSW wheels. The McLaren does not have that joystick and the result is that when I start driving (in any sim) I'm looking throught the right window, while my dash is now visible on the right monitor (I did not mention but I'm obviously on triple screen setiup). 
    The only way to avoid that is going into the sims control settings and delete the view functions. Then the view is OK. I could map the views to four other buttons (or levers, since the two extra paddles can be used for two functions) , but that would interfere too much with the settings for my other wheels. 
    Fanatec should have thought about that...

    - The wheel feels more bland than my other wheels, no doubt this is because the lack of rumble motors.

    Other points:

    The rubber grips: the feel is not too bad, but to be comfortable you need to wear gloves. After a (short) while your (my) hands geat sweaty (something I never experienced on my other two wheels) and the grips don't feel comfortable any more.

    I miss the rev lights. I know I can see them (when present and visible, depending on the view/sim/eventually the virtual wheel) or on the dash, but having rev lights on the wheel  helped me to determinate the position of the wheel in thight corners. I can't remember ever miss-shifting before because of that and now with the McLaren wheel I had it happen several times during night time, pulling the wrong paddle.

    Maybe I'm nitpicking now, but Fanatec should have covered the front part of the extra paddles.  As they are now, they look ugly and unfinished, even cheap.

    When I started I had a kind of ticking sound when turning the wheel. I though there was something loose somewhere and it took me some time to locate it. It was the locking screw for the CSL connection, located in the housing of the allen key in the back of the wheel. I removed the whole thing (don't need it anyway) and the sound was gone.

    If you are going tu use only one wheel, it can be certainly worth buying. 

    If you need it to close the gap between a Formula and a larger wheel, keep in mind what I experienced.

    I keep my hopes high for the Podium series (to come soon ?) 
    B-)
  • Thanks for the review Willy. I preordered, wavered back and forth, then canceled. I put the money towards upgrading from a wheel stand to an Rseat rs1. The unfinished look of those paddles helped make that decision, maybe that’s authentic to the real life rim? With 2 club sport rims I didn’t want to buy a csl quality rim. Hopefully we’ll see a club sport or podium rim in this category. I wonder, will podium level rims feature magnetic shifters?
  • Your fingers seem to be pretty weak, Willy. I have the wheel since a week now, races with gloves and without and I didn't have any issues with the shifter being too hard to engage several hundreds of times during a race and I actually like the rather heavy weight because it gives some sense of quality to me. Same goes for the P and N buttons and I could imagine that they are as heavy irl as well to prevent accidental presses. That's why they have this ring around them too. No one wants to engage the pit limiter or go into neutral by accident.
  • The McLaren is a good steering wheel for this very nice price. Look realistic, but a bit too much plastic. Very interesting features (new paddles, clutch paddles, a lot of buttons, 2 big buttons for the pit and neutral, multiposition switchs, and the funky switch) and that's why I bought it. Very useful steering wheel for LMP, Open Wheels, or modern GT race cars like the GT3 or GTE. The feeling of the shifter paddles is much better than previous paddles on my Formula Rim.

    I'm very happy that I was able to remove the xbox logo. I removed all buttons caps and I really like these stickers (more interesting and effective according to me for race cars).

    I'm using it on iRacing and for the moment I can't use the multiposition switchs on it (except for the blackbox). I hope they will make an update to let me use it for some settings like the traction control.

    However, I had some issues lastly on it... It seems that the steering wheel is sometimes lost about buttons... I had a race yesterday and after few laps, I wasn't able to use shifter paddles anymore ! It stopped to work suddenly. I didn't understand. I wasn't able to shift up. I was lucky to have a sequential shifter on the side with the Fanatec Clubsport Shifter otherwise my race was finished... During my pit stop, I removed the rim quickly and put it again (thanks to the quick release !). After that, it worked again correctly about shifter paddles. But I must admit that isn't something nice. I should trust my steering wheel. If it does things like that sometimes it sucks.

    I hope Fanatec already saw that problem and will resolve it with new drivers or firmware. If it does that again, I will send a mail to them. I want an effective steering wheel first. It's a big issue for me if it continues to happen sometimes. Without that issue, the steering wheel is great.

  • I originally bought this wheel on preorder whilst on xbox as the range on xbox is limited. I have since moved to pc and contemplated cancelling and ordering the F1 wheel but I am glad I stuck with the choice. Prior to this I had been using the Forza wheel so I do find this somewhat light but getting used to it.

    As a previous comment my only "what the"  moment was when the button mappings where different from previous wheel - i had never considered this and was surprised - this meant remapping to in game assignments and no doubt if I change wheels I will have to remap - no biggy but you would have thought this would be consistent across the range.

    I use VR so not bothered about read outs , but I can find buttons well enough and did think the P &N a little hard at first but I have mapped these to pause/reset so its nice to know  that I have to make a conscious effort to press them.

    The lack of rotary support in game is disappointing but as it has come out after the games it is to be expected - hopefully new games will include this 

    Overall I do consider the unit value for money and the issuing spare button tops/sheet of assignments was a nice touch and shows the Fanatec "we go the extra mile" ethos.

    Keeps me in their stable and eagerly awaiting the Podium 
  • Your fingers seem to be pretty weak, Willy. I have the wheel since a week now, races with gloves and without and I didn't have any issues with the shifter being too hard to engage several hundreds of times during a race and I actually like the rather heavy weight because it gives some sense of quality to me. Same goes for the P and N buttons and I could imagine that they are as heavy irl as well to prevent accidental presses. That's why they have this ring around them too. No one wants to engage the pit limiter or go into neutral by accident.
    Well, good for you. 
    But same as for my brake pedal, I use muscle memory to operate them. Being used for years on shifting forces of about 300-400 grams (and more reach) and now having to cope with triple the needed force and only a fraction of the reach is a no go for me.
    The safety collars should prevent accidental operation (hence the name). No need to make them so hard to push. I have never accidentally pushed these buttons on my CSW wheels.

    I have no clue about the McLaren buttons IRL, but I operated buttons on several race wheels and none of them ar that hard to push, nor are the paddle shifters for that matter.

    So there you go... opinions opinions...
  • Your fingers seem to be pretty weak, Willy. I have the wheel since a week now, races with gloves and without and I didn't have any issues with the shifter being too hard to engage several hundreds of times during a race and I actually like the rather heavy weight because it gives some sense of quality to me. Same goes for the P and N buttons and I could imagine that they are as heavy irl as well to prevent accidental presses. That's why they have this ring around them too. No one wants to engage the pit limiter or go into neutral by accident.
    Well, good for you. 
    But same as for my brake pedal, I use muscle memory to operate them. Being used for years on shifting forces of about 300-400 grams (and more reach) and now having to cope with triple the needed force and only a fraction of the reach is a no go for me.
    The safety collars should prevent accidental operation (hence the name). No need to make them so hard to push. I have never accidentally pushed these buttons on my CSW wheels.

    I have no clue about the McLaren buttons IRL, but I operated buttons on several race wheels and none of them ar that hard to push, nor are the paddle shifters for that matter.

    So there you go... opinions opinions...
    Thomas stated several times that the P&N buttons have the same strenght on the real rim. To make the replica authentic those buttons were therefore made with Snapdomes so you actually need to press them exactly that hard as you would have on the real steering wheel. I think this is also great for VR users who cant see the actual button they want to press, they need to press them "blind" and the safety ring together with the hard pressure is ideal to not accidentally press those crucial buttons.
    As for the shifter paddles: This new shifting force to actuate the snapdomes is maybe my main plus point on this entire rim. I dont liked the mushy feeling on the FOrmula where you have no pressure point at all. All a matter of taste I think and your muscles will quickly adopt to this new shifter paddles and you will never ever want a 300g shifting force again ;-)
  • edited May 2018
    Maurice Böschen said: Thomas stated several times that the P&N buttons have the same strenght on the real rim. To make the replica authentic those buttons were therefore made with Snapdomes so you actually need to press them exactly that hard as you would have on the real steering wheel. I think this is also great for VR users who cant see the actual button they want to press, they need to press them "blind" and the safety ring together with the hard pressure is ideal to not accidentally press those crucial buttons.As for the shifter paddles: This new shifting force to actuate the snapdomes is maybe my main plus point on this entire rim. I dont liked the mushy feeling on the FOrmula where you have no pressure point at all. All a matter of taste I think and your muscles will quickly adopt to this new shifter paddles and you will never ever want a 300g shifting force again ;-)
    Could be true. In that case it will be easy for me. The McLaren will be on sale together with my V2 base as soon as the Podium series are available (or another DD system, depending on what Fanatec is going to push out).
    In the meantime I'll stick to both my CSW's.
    On the McLaren the P and N buttons are # 9 and 10. On the CSW's these are located in a triagle at the bottom. Totally different approach, so I would need to change the button layout each time I switch from and to the McLaren.
    I too like a crisp shifting point like I experienced in several OSW wheels with magnetic shifters. But none of them needed that much force, nor did they have this extreme short reach.


  • edited May 2018
    As a PS4 user, I was very pleased to read that the rim would be compatible with all existing Fanatic wheel bases. The reason for this is because I have been limited to using the Clubsport V1 wheel base in conjunction with the Cronus Max dongle. This is due to trying the CSL Elite (PS4) and finding it vastly inferior (in every way), also not being able to upgrade to the V2 due to some software incompatibilities.

    My delight has now turned to despair! I have now noticed since the rim has appeared on the main web site it states: "This steering wheel is not compatible with the ClubSport Wheel bases V1 and V1.5 for electronic reasons". I don't recall being told this when I pre-ordered mine. I could be wrong as I have tried - unsuccessfully - to find the initial wording, but I am sure you can all understand that the initial excitement we feel when we receive a NEW Fanatec product was short lived when I discovered I couldn't use it!
  • edited May 2018
    BE WARNED!!! It is not supported (once again) on PS4 unless you buy the inferior CSL Elite. Since the development of some kind of relationship with Sony, could you please give us a Clubsport 2 with the necessary chip for PS4 use, please please please!!!



  • Hi guys with the glamorous gt3 rim, envy but the good one..... Just order mine now but in the interest of all of us please for these using the wheel in PS4 please post comments of things not working in the principal games for me AC and PC2the reason is very simple the game developer and Fanatec to take the note and work on it, thinks like the implementation of rotary switch and buttons without use not sure but in the AC case they have a new version of the game and still making updates so like they will not give us a console version of ACC (for now hope), maybe kunos make those little modifications to us the pour consoles guys, in the PC2 will be more easy if you the ones with the beauty give the feedback so when my arrives all is solve :D
  • BE WARNED!!! It is not supported (once again) on PS4 unless you buy the inferior CSL Elite. Since the development of some kind of relationship with Sony, could you please give us a Clubsport 2 with the necessary chip for PS4 use, please please please!!!


    What's wrong with you? Since the release of the CSL Elite for PS4 it is pretty clear, that nealry every rim is PS4 READY and the compatibiliy goes through the base on ps4. No one has to be warned here.
  • BE WARNED!!! It is not supported (once again) on PS4 unless you buy the inferior CSL Elite. Since the development of some kind of relationship with Sony, could you please give us a Clubsport 2 with the necessary chip for PS4 use, please please please!!!


    What's wrong with you? Since the release of the CSL Elite for PS4 it is pretty clear, that nealry every rim is PS4 READY and the compatibiliy goes through the base on ps4. No one has to be warned here.
    EXACTLY! Everybody knows that the PS4 is only compatible with the CSL Elite wheelbase and no other FANATEC wheelbase....and that is NOT due to FANATEC but due to SONY itself. So don't blame FANATEC if your other wheelbase is not compatible with PS4, the CSW wheelbases never will be.
    I have an older CSR Elite wheel and that is also not compatible to PS4, instead of whining I bought the CSL Elite and I am happy with it.
    SONY does limit the wheels which are working on PS4, since most users know that there is no need for any warning.
    If the podium will be made PS4 compatible is a dream and wish, but very doubtful.
  • Drive on xbox x with V2.5 Base +the Wheel feels pretty good with the new firmware +looks awsome +faster laptimes possible -Button Mapping not possible or i can't find out how do that would be nice a Info and Video Intro -paddle shifter are a little far away (i can hold a Basketball with one Hand) ;) but its playble - my Y Button sometimes dont work i would give the Wheel a 10 coz its deserved but the Button Mapping and the Shifter its not on on Point so a give this Wheel a 8.7..:)
  • edited May 2018
    Sorry if I misunderstood - but does this NOT have a d-pad? I assumed the 'funky switch' would function as a d-pad - which is used by just about every sim for something important (ie AC pitstop changes).

    Also interesting to hear from a poster above that the QR adds significant weight. I'll be using it, but slightly sad to hear that performance will possibly be better with the standard connector.

    Pre-ordered last year, patiently but excitedly waiting delivery (Aust) hopefully in a couple of weeks, thanks everyone for sharing your first impressions.

    e: regarding the rotaries and that there's no use for them yet - I'm hoping that using a third party button and macro mapper (I use Xpadder) will let me map functions to the rotary positions. If someone feels like trying that and reporting back if it works I'm be much obliged.
  • Sorry if I misunderstood - but does this NOT have a d-pad? I assumed the 'funky switch' would function as a d-pad - which is used by just about every sim for something important (ie AC pitstop changes).

    Also interesting to hear from a poster above that the QR adds significant weight. I'll be using it, but slightly sad to hear that performance will possibly be better with the standard connector.

    Pre-ordered last year, patiently but excitedly waiting delivery (Aust) hopefully in a couple of weeks, thanks everyone for sharing your first impressions.

    e: regarding the rotaries and that there's no use for them yet - I'm hoping that using a third party button and macro mapper (I use Xpadder) will let me map functions to the rotary positions. If someone feels like trying that and reporting back if it works I'm be much obliged.
    The FunkySwitch is a D-Pad just like the other CSW rims.

    And dont be worried about the extra weight of the QRA. I am pretty sure you wont feel any significant difference. All Fanatec Bases have more than enough power to handle the extra weight easily.
    The standard QR results in a weight of 1057g. Using the QRA the weight is still only 1244g which is only 19g heavier than the forumula rim with 1225g. The extra weight changing from the standard QR to the QRA is only 187g... Nothing you should be worried about ;-)
  • Superb response, thanks Maurice.
  • Also, consider that the extra weight from the QRA is at the center of the turning point, where it adds only little inertia. It would be more noticeable if the extra mass was added on the grips for example.
  • edited May 2018

    Fanatec McLaren GT3 Rim: first 24 hrs review (first time writing a review):

    Background: Only wheel I’ve used prior to my Fanatec CSW v2.5 is a Logitech G27. I currently own the Porsche 918 Rim and previously owned the BMW GT2 Rim. I’ll try to be as detailed as possible.

     

    Weight/Feel:

    First off, I really like the feel of the molded rubber grips; definitely not a fan of wheels you have to “pamper” like Alcantara for example (to each their own), but this feels nice, firm and sturdy. The wheel, on paper, is lighter than all other Fanatec wheels, but in one hand they feel about the same (compared to the Porsche 918 rim). This could be due to the optional Fanatec quick release adapter that I added on, which is all metal. I do recall it feeling a touch lighter when I first grabbed it, so with the QR it’s probably about the weight of the formula black/carbon rim, if not a little heavier. The finish on the wheel is very nice…yea, it’s not real carbon fiber obviously, but I think it looks really great overall. There are also these little dots in the finish, next to each button, to help position labels (included with the wheel).

     

    Buttons and switches:

    It comes with the Xbox button caps installed, but also includes button caps for various functions (#1 - 4, arrows, + and -, headlights, wipers, etc) as well as label stickers for common adjustments (ABS, BRK + and -, DRS, etc). The button caps were difficult to get off using only my hands...and at one point I was worried about pulling on the buttons too hard…but I found a flat piece of metal and pried them off easily. The feel of the buttons are varied, but not in a bad way. The NEUTRAL and PIT LIMITER buttons up top are very stiff, the stiffest by far, and rightfully so…hitting those accidentally are game enders. The other 7 standard buttons have a more familiar amount of resistance, however some of them have a slightly wobbly feel to them (in particular the orange and grey buttons) but it’s acceptable…also the click sound is softer than my Porsche rim. The pair of 2-way switches feel very nice, not too loose or stiff, no complaints there. The standard Fanatec “funky” switch seems to be a little wonky though…I was adjusting settings in the wheel and rotating it in one direction seemed to do a “left, then right (and vice-versa)” kinda thing…not sure if it’s a hardware or software issue…time will tell. 

     

    The Rotary dials:

    Nice, positive click and firmness to each position for all 3 dials. They don’t rotate 360 degrees (i.e. you can’t jump from Position 12 straight to 1 or from Position D to A on the Clutch encoder. Each position of the 12-way dial is an “always on” button; very important to know because in the wheel’s default mode it’s impossible to map any other buttons (the sim will only detect that dial). There is a workaround: in the Fanatec CSW base settings (as in the one in Game Controllers in Windows), there are 3 modes for the 12-way encoder…mode 2 is “11 position” mode: Position 1 is OFF and the other positions are active buttons. Really curious to see how current/future sims will implement functionality of these dials…I think only iRacing has a use for them (calling up the different black boxes).

     

    Shifter Paddles:

    The orange shifter paddles are metal and are at a good distance away from the rubber grips for my relatively short fingers. Unlike my Porsche rim, which has a decent throw with a click at the end, these have very minimal throw and a firm, almost magnetic click to it, more like an “on/off” switch. Should make shifting more precise in theory (more on that later).

     

    The Dual Clutch:

    These are not made of metal (a hard plastic I believe), but I still like the feel of the material. Also unlike the shifters, these have a much longer throw: I’d say slightly longer than the throw of the Porsche rim shifter paddles, but with double the resistance. I’ve only used it so far in Mode A, the “bite point” mode. The way the paddle currently works is that you hold in the first clutch (doesn’t matter which one), then hold the second clutch to the desired bite point (which shows up as a value of 1 – 100 on the OLED). When the race starts you let go clutch #1 and then gradually ease out clutch #2. The problem with Fanatec’s current implementation is that, from what I’ve researched, a dual clutch is preprogrammed so that clutch #2, when pulled to 100% of its travel, is at the bite point (let’s say the bite point in this car is 65% clutch). However, the way Fanatec did it will have you holding clutch #2 at exactly 65% of its travel to get 65% clutch…which means you have to watch the OLED to confirm you’re holding it at the right spot. In a race, when waiting for the green light, I believe the last thing you’d want to do is look down at your wheel to ensure you didn’t move the clutch a millimeter too far from the ideal bite point. I believe Thomas said in the forums that future implementation will allow you to program the bite point, but as of right now that doesn’t seem possible…seems very promising though.  

     

    Driving tests:

    So far I’ve only used it in Automobilista, ran about 30 to 40 laps (mostly on Suzuka) with the Formula Ultimate 18 (2018 Formula 1…insert HALO joke here) between last night and this morning. I LOVE this wheel. Feels perfect for doing quick turns that require minimal rotation of the wheel…very fast and responsive, the FFB feels a hair stronger, which I assume is due to the slightly smaller size and weight. The grips feel amazing when powering through high speed corners like 130R and Eau Rouge…it’s hard to describe but it just feels more nuanced when the FFB pulls in those sections. Shifting was fine for the most part, I like the added resistance...however, I feel like every now and again the wheel missed a shift...could be user error or the game, but when I was downshifting quickly a few times, I felt as if one of the clicks missed a shift. Most of the buttons are in good places to reach; the funky switch and the bottom right button (the one with the xbox logo button cap on it) can be a bit tricky to reach under heavy racing, but I have them assigned as a d-pad for pit changes and the pause button respectively, so it's not an issue.


    Final thoughts:

    Very happy with my purchase…for the price, and especially compared to the Porsche rim which costs more than double that of the McLaren, it’s well constructed and feels great when racing. I think once they update the firmware to make better use of its features, it’s gonna be one of Fanatec’s best sellers.

    I'll update this review as I log more time on the wheel.

     

  • edited May 2018
    So far i am liking this new wheel and quick release adapter.


  • So far i am liking this new wheel and quick release adapter.


    The only detail I saw is not there is the soft fabric Fanatec use to wrap the wheels, is a shame because I used to cover the wheel after play to keep it protected. 
  • edited May 2018
    Hello,
     Can other GT3 Owners please test this. Is it normal to have (Plastic?) creeking and a little bit of flexing when holding grips strong and pushing on grips with my hands/tight grip when racing after only max 3-4h of in track practice / use in the last few days ?
    I just try test now and I looked closer and can see that if I push hard when gripping the handles then the front face of rim comes away from the rear half around the edges were it meets up with the rear half of the rim housing, but maybe only 1mm gap opens up between the front face and rear housing / back of the rim.
     I think maybe Can I suggest for Fanatec to add 4 x extra screw mounting pointing on front wheel face in each corner so they hold it tight to the rear wheel main housing so is no flexing or separation if they make a v2 version ;) OR Can add extra plastic clips or something ?

    I still love the wheel and it was even more of a Bargain for us who pre ordered in 2017 with Fanatec Kindly giving us the extra QR for Free because of the extra 7-8 weeks of Delay/wait ;) 

    Thankyou Thomas and All of Fanatec ;) ;) ;)
  • I just ordered the McLaren rim now. I want to ask kindly once more to make it happen that I can get also the Firmware update for a Macbook computer because I still have no windows PC ( as a PS4 player, not really needed a windows system so far ). I will buy a PC for sim racing in the future, but for now I have only a Macbook, I want to be able to do the firmware update with it.
    Thanks!
    I do this very easily running Paralles software on my iMac - https://www.parallels.com/products/desktop/
    This is certainly a possible solution, but it is very expensive if you just want to update the firmware of some peripherals. You need both software like Parallels (about €80,-) and a copy of Windows (I've seen them as low as another €80,-). I think it would be great for console gamers with a Mac OS desktop or laptop if they could use that to update their firmware.
    Agree. But it's highly doubtful that Fanatec will ever port their Windows app/software over to AppleOS so this really is the only solution.
  • After several hours.
    The steering wheel is simply fantastic.
    All buttons are very easily accessible, without risk of being wrong, which avoids false maneuvers. The handling of all buttons and pallets is very pleasant and give the feeling of quality of precision. Obviously, it's true, that compared to your other wheels, you may be a little lost. Take the time to set up and this will only be a non-constructive criticism. In real life, when you change your car, you end up with a new dashboard and different layouts.
    The look of the steering wheel is far superior to the fact that it is made of plastic. When he is mounted on the base, no one thinks it's plastic. Visually it's very successful, nobody will suspect that you only paid 179 € !
    The oled screen is very good, very readable. The cut of the steering wheel, greatly facilitates the readability of the LEDs arranged on the base CSL ELITE. This strongly compensates for the lack of screen placed on the upper part, flying Porsche and P1. We are on a steering wheel of the CSL series, so it is normal that CSL products, between them, marry better. For example my BMW Clubsport steering wheel, on my CSL base, hides the LEDs present on the base. In my opinion this is not a fault from the moment when have mixed 2 different series; Let's just be positive and happy that fanatec makes this possible.
    The material handles, after several hours of use, I do not have any problems. It's just a question of habit.
    If you have not yet ordered it, I strongly recommend you do it. You will not be disappointed.
    Especially since we have not yet reached the full potential. That will be achieved when the different games have been updated to exploit all the options offered by this wheel.
    There you will regret doubly not being the proud owner of this product.
    Very very good product, certainly one of the best on the market so far, all brands all products combined, at the sight of the quality / price / utility / opportunity.
    Sorry for my English, I'm doing my best.
  • image
    3264 x 2448 - 2M
  • Really nice colour scheme with the buttons there Sylvain, that looks fantastic.
  • edited May 2018

    However, I had some issues lastly on it... It seems that the steering wheel is sometimes lost about buttons... I had a race yesterday and after few laps, I wasn't able to use shifter paddles anymore ! It stopped to work suddenly. I didn't understand. I wasn't able to shift up. I was lucky to have a sequential shifter on the side with the Fanatec Clubsport Shifter otherwise my race was finished... During my pit stop, I removed the rim quickly and put it again (thanks to the quick release !). After that, it worked again correctly about shifter paddles. But I must admit that isn't something nice. I should trust my steering wheel. If it does things like that sometimes it sucks.


    I have to say I hit exactly the same problem, and it ruined two races for me.  I also had other buttons triggering without me pressing them.  I am researching and in email conversation with Fanatec, but this is really concerning as I can't trust this rim anymore.

    On a bright side, it is my favorite rim out of F1 Carbon and BMW Gt2 for DTM/GT3 racing, I really like the proportions.  Hopefully, those issues will get resolved soon.  I am happy with the rim itself and I am sure Fanatec will help, it is an inconvenience though.

  • Upon request I will also answer in this topic:

    I pre-ordered back in November and since release a couple of weeks ago I use this steering wheel almost on a daily basis. A lot of review content is already written in previous posts by other users. I can confirm that I'm happy with this purchase! The value for money is great. I would also recommend the QR release over the default release. I'm using this wheel with the CSL Elite. Perfect match. In the next phase of software patches by race sims like R3E, ACC, PCars2 it would be very welcome if the much discussed two 12-way rotary knobs would get full support. But even with a limited usage at the moment the wheel as a whole is a joy to use. 

    It feels very sturdy with the two thick rubber grips. 
    As written earlier by me and others the two dome P & N buttons need some extra thumb exercises. I mapped them now to two functions not often used (like e.g. camera view change). 

    I 'mis use' the two analog clutch levers as 1.) pit limiter 2.) flash light. 

    Also nice that you can customize this wheel to your own preference with the extra supplied stickers and buttons. 

    The only disadvantage is that I'm racing in VR so cannot see the wheel, lights,oled itself when racing. But for that one I can only "blame" Zuckerberg. 

    Just be honest: this wheel looks very sexy! 

    Yes I'm enthusiastic about this wheel, but I think that was already clear after reading this post or postings on others forum sites :) 

    My recommendation to Fanatec: Keep up the good job and bring on some more!



  • Hello,
     Can other GT3 Owners please test this. Is it normal to have (Plastic?) creeking and a little bit of flexing when holding grips strong and pushing on grips with my hands/tight grip when racing after only max 3-4h of in track practice / use in the last few days ?
    I just try test now and I looked closer and can see that if I push hard when gripping the handles then the front face of rim comes away from the rear half around the edges were it meets up with the rear half of the rim housing, but maybe only 1mm gap opens up between the front face and rear housing / back of the rim.
     I think maybe Can I suggest for Fanatec to add 4 x extra screw mounting pointing on front wheel face in each corner so they hold it tight to the rear wheel main housing so is no flexing or separation if they make a v2 version ;) OR Can add extra plastic clips or something ?

    I still love the wheel and it was even more of a Bargain for us who pre ordered in 2017 with Fanatec Kindly giving us the extra QR for Free because of the extra 7-8 weeks of Delay/wait ;) 

    Thankyou Thomas and All of Fanatec ;) ;) ;)
    Hi Ian, 

    Especially for you I just ran upstairs to my race rig and pushed, squeezed the rim as hard as I could. No friction as described by you. No I'm not a powerlifter like Schwarzenegger although I visit a gym regurarly ;) 

  • I have to say I hit exactly the same problem, and it ruined two races for me.  I also had other buttons triggering without me pressing them.  I am researching and in email conversation with Fanatec, but this is really concerning as I can't trust this rim anymore.

    On a bright side, it is my favorite rim out of F1 Carbon and BMW Gt2 for DTM/GT3 racing, I really like the proportions.  Hopefully, those issues will get resolved soon.  I am happy with the rim itself and I am sure Fanatec will help, it is an inconvenience though.


    Thanks for your message, I feel less alone. ^^'
    So I'm not the only one to have it... I hope they are reading our messages and I hope they will do something soon...
  • Hello,
     Can other GT3 Owners please test this. Is it normal to have (Plastic?) creeking and a little bit of flexing when holding grips strong and pushing on grips with my hands/tight grip when racing after only max 3-4h of in track practice / use in the last few days ?
    I just try test now and I looked closer and can see that if I push hard when gripping the handles then the front face of rim comes away from the rear half around the edges were it meets up with the rear half of the rim housing, but maybe only 1mm gap opens up between the front face and rear housing / back of the rim.
     I think maybe Can I suggest for Fanatec to add 4 x extra screw mounting pointing on front wheel face in each corner so they hold it tight to the rear wheel main housing so is no flexing or separation if they make a v2 version ;) OR Can add extra plastic clips or something ?

    I still love the wheel and it was even more of a Bargain for us who pre ordered in 2017 with Fanatec Kindly giving us the extra QR for Free because of the extra 7-8 weeks of Delay/wait ;) 

    Thankyou Thomas and All of Fanatec ;) ;) ;)
    Hi Ian, 

    Especially for you I just ran upstairs to my race rig and pushed, squeezed the rim as hard as I could. No friction as described by you. No I'm not a powerlifter like Schwarzenegger although I visit a gym regurarly ;) 
    Here is picture showing gap between front and rear wheel housing/cases that opens up when rear housing flexing.
    838 x 361 - 208K
  • Doesn’t look good Ian, mine is very rigid.. Send it back is my advice..

  • edited May 2018
    JP Mens said:

    Doesn’t look good Ian, mine is very rigid.. Send it back is my advice..

    Also I spot that on rightside the edges dont line up like on leftside of wheel. Is this the same on your GT3 wheel ?
    4032 x 3024 - 3M
    4032 x 3024 - 4M
  • edited May 2018
    Short video show little bit of flexing at top .
  • Short video show little bit of flexing at top .

    Ian if you aks me for a suggestion I returned for an a RMA
  • I don't know I may be way off but that would be normal for plastic to have that kind of flex especially since it is not glued together. I also don't think you would normally steer that way unless road rage is involved. Curious to know what Fanatec responds with. Please let us know
  • edited May 2018
    Philip. So this is not normal flexing and your wheel does not flex like mine ? Think I need to contact Fanatec and hope they accept RMA for Flexing and send new wheel really quickly.
  • edited May 2018
    I have just messaged Fanatec support to ask there opinion if this is normal or not and told them I have posted images and video on here and they might want to check it out and let me know if I should or should not RMA my wheel. The worry for me only after few hours and if normal or not and if not will it get worse over time. I heard the leftside creeking while practice lapping on Nord track in GT3 Merc, which led me to investigate to see what was making the noise. And then I also spotted that down the whole rightside the 2 casings dont sit flush with each other like on the leftside, so wondered if this is just the way there manufactured or does this show another issue or not ? The day I got the wheel I posted a sort of joke post with image having a poke at Chinese Qaulity Control due to my metal orange paddle casting having 3 small chips out of it. Maybe I just got a bad one that fell off the end of the assembly line. (lol)
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